Before I begin this review I would like to firstly thank Vertebrate Publishing for sending me a copy of this fantastic book (signed copy too), and secondly to apologise for taking so long to get this review written!

It’s taken me a while to read Rock Athlete, partly because I have been really busy recently and have only been able to read for an hour in the evenings, but also because it’s so fascinating I found myself reading many paragraphs more than once. Even interrupting my girlfriends TV viewing to read some of them aloud to her.

Every sport has its heroes, and I’m enjoying discovering those from the sport of Rock Climbing. Up until reading this book, I have to confess I hadn’t heard of Ron Fawcett so I probably wouldn’t have considered purchasing his autobiography. Now, having just finished reading it, I feel both inspired and humbled.

The book starts with the narrative of a truly exceptional feat. In 1986, in the Peak District Ron soloed 100 Extreme graded routes in one day! I actually read it wrong to start with, I think my mind must have been unable to comprehend it because I read it as 100 severe graded routes, but no, it was 100 extremes – staggering! If you’re thinking they must be E1s, think again – they go right up to E5! By the end of that day Ron had climbed 3,957ft, and the walking and running between the totaled 12 miles! This sets the tone for the book and demonstrates how appropriate the title is, Ron Fawcett is an incredible athlete.

If you enjoy rock climbing and adventure, you’ll love this book. Working class lad born in Embsay, near Skipton in West Yorkshire develops an all encompassing love of rock climbing which becomes the centre of his life and takes him all over the world. From cragging in West Yorkshire to massive multi-pitch routes on El Capitan, from climbing documentaries shot in the Peaks for the BBC to movies shot on the Aiguille des Drus. This book charts the highs and lows of a life dedicated to climbing.

This book features loads of first ascents. It’s really interesting to read about the process of spotting a first ascent, the competition for claiming them and the arguments over ethics. If you want to know more about the history of the last 40 years of rock climbing, there’s a wealth of information here from the perspective of one of its stars.

There’s some great pictures too.

By far and away the most engaging autobiography I have ever read – brilliant!

If you would like to buy Ron Fawcett, Rock Athlete, can I recommend our new online climbing books shop.

Climbing book review – Ron Fawcett – Rock Athlete is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The first thing I did when I finished reading this book was turn back to page one and start reading it again – it really is that good!

In this truly inspirational climbing book, Dave MacLoed embarks on a step by step mission to destroy every excuse that stands between you and your success as a rock climber (or if you think laterally, between you and success in your job, or any other sport).

The book is broken down into 5 chapters:

1. Creatures of habit

Dave really gets to the bottom of some of the psychological reasons that climbers don’t succeed. If you really take it to heart and examine your own climbing, there’s some pretty tough things to come to terms with here. For me this is the most important section in the book. Climbing is such a psychological sport, if you’re not prepared mentally, you’ll never succeed. I loved the stuff about avoiding getting into the habit of only climbing the type of routes that you can look good on, or being afraid to climb in front of strangers who might be better climbers than you. This stuff is solid gold. I think most people will be able to admit that at some point, they have been affected by the issues in this chapter.

2. The big four: movement technique, finger strength, endurance, body mass

In this section Dave gets into the physical aspects of climbing. What’s really nice is that he has a deep understanding of motivation and external factors that might influence your climbing ability. He really takes into account that everyone has a different level of time and emotional commitment that they can give to the sport.

3. Fear of falling: the real problem, probably…

All climbers (humans) have a fear of falling, it’s hard wired into our DNA to keep us alive. However we all have different levels of fear and ways of dealing with it. There’s some really practical advice on dealing with the fear of falling here, complete with some drills to help you to overcome it.

4. The other big four: attitude, lifestyle, circumstances, tactics

This section smashes a few more of the excuses you might have about improving your climbing – think you’re too old? Forget that! There’s some top quality advice on training to be the best you can be whatever age.

5. What’s next coach? Planning your improvement

Here you’ll find a blueprint for planning your training and recovery. As with the other chapters, it’s real, easy-to-follow, practical advice.

I can hand on heart tell you that the advice contained in this book contributed to my improving my climbing performance by a good couple of grades. Those improvements largely came about from mental and attitude changes rather than some kind of physical regime, so they came pretty quickly.

If you feel like you have hit a bit of a plateau in your rock climbing performance and you want to find a way to push to the next level, I defy you to read this book and not find at least a couple of things which will help you to do it.

I’m proudly stocking it in my new, online climbing books shop. Buy Dave MacLoed – 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes for just £15 – bargain!

Climbing book review: 10 mistakes that climbers make by Dave Macloed is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The laminated book of dreams! That’s the title that my brother David and I use to describe this climbing book. It’s not really laminated. We adopted the phrase coined by Bill Bailey, to describe the Argos catalogue, in a stand-up routine. We call it that because we use it like a weekend holiday brochure, to decide where our next mountain route adventure is going to be.

Classic Rock is the archetypal coffee table book, it’s big, hard-backed and is packed with simply jaw dropping photography. First published in 1978, the latest version features over 300 colour images. There are routes from all over the UK, divided into the following chapters:

• Peak and Pennine
• North Wales
• South-West England
• The Lake District
• Scotland

It’s important to note that this isn’t a guidebook. If you want to climb the routes featured, you will almost certainly need to get your hands on the relevant guidebook first. Instead, the routes are described from a much more personal perspective. You get a real sense of what it is to climb the routes; the drama, the exposure, the anxiety and the elation.

Like all climbing photography, the images featured in this book are designed to present the most dramatic views of the routes. If it wasn’t for the fact that we have now climbed quite a few of the routes featured, I would go so far as to say some of the images make them appear pretty daunting. With our limited time and resources, my brother David and I rarely manage to capture how big or dramatic the routes we climb are. It’s really nice to be able to show friends and family the pictures in the book and say “See where he is now? I’ve been in that position” and for the non-climbers, watch their shocked faces (they never thought we did anything quite so serious).

In addition to all the meaty route goodness, there’s also a good deal of interesting climbing history, and some classic images of the climbers of old (wearing hob-nail boots, a rope wrapped round their waist a pipe in’t mouth and no-runners – hardcore!).

I bought this book for my brother David for Christmas 09. It wasn’t the cheapest purchase, but we have both extracted every last drop of value from it (all the best presents are the one you want for yourself). We have climbed about half a dozen routes so far and we have an extensive wish list to get through!

I defy any outdoor rock climber with a sense of adventure, not to find the content of this book inspirational. If big, airy routes are your thing, get yourself a copy, or even better, buy your closest climbing friend one as a present then borrow it from them!

You can buy this wonderful climbing book, now from my brand new climbing book shop for £32.

Climbing book review: Classic Rock compiled by Ken Wilson is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The autobiography of Jerry Moffatt titled ‘Revelations’, is exactly as the title suggests. Named after Jerry’s famous first ascent, the book is a unique insight into the life of a legendary climber. A climber that at his peak raised the international bar and set a new standard for climbing the world over, achieving groundbreaking first ascents and rapid repeats of the worlds most difficult routes. For over two decades Jerry dominated the sport of climbing, establishing some of the most famous routes ever set, popular climbs and stunning lines include the E7 6b ‘Masters Wall’ at Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, ‘Ulysses’ (E6 6b Stanage, UK) and of cause . . . ‘Revelations’ (F8a+ Raven Tor, UK)

“I can’t reverse the moves I have made to get here. I am fully committed”*

From the outset Jerry’s motive becomes very clear, to become the best climber in the world, a relentless pursuit that he undoubtedly achieved at his peak, winning the World Cup at Leeds in 1989. Niall, Jerry’s ghostwriter, actually points out that an extended list of his climbs could quite easily fill another book, which it very impressive.

“I could barely straighten my arms. The shocks that ran down them became agony. I could almost feel them falling apart”*

Moffatt writes of how he overcame an agonising elbow condition, which threatened his climbing career by means of (at that time – 1986), unprecedented surgery performed by Professor Feldmaier of The Olympic hospital (Munich). Jerry not only regained fitness he was training again within 7 months and competing within one year, achieving 6th at the Troubat climbing competition in 1987.

Jerry Moffat at Curbar Photo By Carros de Fuego

“‘We can’t fly to Goa,’ Johnny said ‘ We need to suffer a bit more to get the authentic experience’”*

The book not only tells the story of Jerry’s life it takes you along on his travels around the world, from his first climbing experiences in Llandudno, to the gritstone of Sheffield, ‘Super Injin’ in Ogawayama (Japan) and Yosemite, home of the epic El Capitan (USA) to name just four climbing destinations detailed within the book.

Rarely, in my opinion, is a climbing read so inspiring that it actually motivates the reader to try that little bit harder at the next crag visit, encouraging one to push that little bit further, pinching that crimp a little harder and crank right to the top . . . which is exactly the impact it had upon me.

‘Revelations’, winner of the Banff Mountain Book Festival award, is an absolute must read for any climber, a real page-turner from start to finish. I have to say that never have I become so engrossed in an autobiography, a testament I guess to the truly inspiring life and work of Jerry Moffatt.

*Quotes taken directly from ‘Revelations’ By Jerry Moffatt (with Niall Grimes), Vertebrate Publishing, 2009.

It’s available to buy for just £12.99 from The Climbing Book Shop.

Climbing books reviews: ‘Revelations’ by Jerry Moffatt is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Last year when I first visited the Llanberis Pass, I fell completely in love with the place. A visually stunning 3 mile stretch of rock climbing paradise, with routes for everyone, from beginner to expert.

This is actually the sixth edition of this climbing book. The first edition was published back in 1987. I’m not sure how many climbs are featured within, without counting them, but I can tell you it’s a lot.

The passion of the author really shines through in every page of this climbing guide. Evident from the clear description of the process applied to grading the routes, to the comprehensive list of first ascents at the back. Each crag page features an overview of the crag, aspect, altitude and a guide to the walk-in time. There’s even a guide to when to use each crag for optimum conditions!

The residents of Snowdonia are spoiled rotten for rock climbing. Driving through the Llanberis Pass, you notice smaller crags which appear to be virtually ignored. If you were to relocate those crags to the Peak District they would be crawling with climbers. It’s easy to see how Iwan found the enthusiasm to treat us to this guide, and I’m really glad he did. Llanberis is arguably the best climbing venue in the UK, and this guide is a must have if you plan to go there.

Oh, did I mention the book covers are plastic coated to keep it in reasonable shape when you take it climbing with you. Brilliant!

This book is available to buy fromThe Climbing Book Shop for £19.50. It’s not cheap, but it is well worth it.

Climbing books reviews: Llanberis by Iwan Arfon Jones is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Rather than trying to distinguish between scrambling and climbing, this book simply offers great mountain day rock expeditions. If you like easy moves on big routes, occasionally with a good measure of exposure, then read on.

I came across this book while looking for a guidebook for the Amphitheatre Buttress route in Snowdonia. It features this classic route along with 50 others, all contained in a handy, pocket-sized package.

The climbing routes are well described and easy to follow, and if you don’t understand any of the terminology used, there’s a glossary at the back. There’s even a handy guide to some of the Welsh terms you might encounter.

You’ll find a good combination of illustrations and black & white photos throughout. The climbs are indexed alphabetically and by grade. There’s advice on where to climb when it’s wet, and which climbs are best reserved for blue sky days. The book even includes advice on where to eat and sleep.

I have used the guide twice now, for the Amphitheatre Buttress and the Cneifion Arete (which is featured on the cover). The directions for the walk-in for the first climb were a little light on information, and I ended up having to ask a local for directions, other than that the guide was spot on for both expeditions.

You can get this book for £12.95 from The Climbing Book Shop.

Climbing book review: Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia (Grey Stone Books) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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The cover describes this book as being the official handbook of the Mountaineering Instructor and Single Pitch Award schemes. I would go as far as calling it “The Rock Climbers Bible!” I’m not the only one either, I heard it described as such by other climbers at the Single Pitch Award training I attended a couple of weeks ago.

The book features really useful information, pictures and diagrams for rock climbers and climbing instructors alike.

It’s divided into 19 sections:

1. The climbing environment
2. A brief history of UK and Irish climbing
3. Warming up
4. Movement skills
5. Training and improving technique
6. The basics
7. Bouldering
8. Single pitch climbing
9. Indoor climbing walls
10. Leading climbs
11. Sport climbing
12. Problem avoidance and solving
13. Multi-pitch climbing: rope work
14. Descending from multi-pitch crags
15. Multi-pitch problem solving
16. Scrambling
17. Sea level traversing and gorge scrambling
18. Accidents
19. The law and risk management

I would never recommend that reading a book should take the place of receiving proper ‘hands on’ training. However, this book is a fantastic piece of reference material you’ll find yourself referring back to time and again. I keep my copy (actually my brother David’s copy – shhhh!!!) in my bedside table for easy access – yep I’m sad!

Whether you’re a beginner, a seasoned climber or a budding instructor you will find this book useful.

Rather than buy this from Amazon, I would recommend supporting the UK climbing Industry, and buy from a specialist climbing book shop. Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques is available to buy from The Climbing Book Shop for just £16.99.

You have probably noticed that I’ve mentioned this book in other pages of my blog recently. No apologies there, this really is a must have!

If you have a copy, I would love to hear your thoughts. Feel free to drop me a comment below.

Climbing books reviews: Rock Climbing Essential Skills and Techniques (Mountain Leader Training UK) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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I have been waiting for this climbing book for some time. It went out of print sometime in the last year to make way for the new, updated version, and I’m here to tell you it was well worth the wait.

• It has over 670 routes; everything from trad routes and sport climbs to sea cliffs.
• It comes in a handy pocket size, but is packed full of detail.
• There’s maps showing the position of the crags and clear, full colour photographs illustrating the climbing routes.
• Each crag features a nice introduction and a quick-view of the grades available.
• Each crag has a description of its aspect, altitude and rock type.
• There’s a grid ref for every crag.
• Each climb features a grade, length and description of each pitch.

Overall this climbing book has real quality feel to it. The routes look fantastic (especially those big multi-pitch routes), and the climbing pictures are really inspirational.

At a touch under £25 it isn’t the cheapest book, but I still feel it represents good value for money, and it’s probably the only North Wales climbing book you’ll ever need. To save you the bother of looking for it, there’s a copy right here: North Wales Rock

I simply cannot wait to get over to North Wales and climb some of the routes featured in this book. If you get a copy, let me know what routes you climb, I would love to hear about them.

Climbing book review: North Wales Rock (Ground Up) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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Eastern Grit is a really comprehensive climbing book, covering a massive 2950 climbing routes over 19 crags in the Peak District.

Because it focuses entirely on the Eastern gritstone crags, it shows a lot more routes on those crags than some of the other Peak District guides that include the limestone crags.

My brother David bought this book, mainly to gain access to more routes on the crags that we were climbing than could be found in the book I bought (Peak District Climbing by Vertebrate Graphics, which covers limestone crags and gritstone Crags in the Peaks).

Eastern Grit covers 19 Crags in total and presents them in a nice, easy-to-follow layout with full colour photographs. Where the climbs are a “must-do”, they have given them a 1, 2 or 3 grading. ROCKFAX have come up with a nice way of telling you what type of climb to expect for each route, by creating some symbols. Things like a bulging forearm to show that the climb is “pumpy” or a heart with wings indicating a “fluttery” climb (you know, those ones where you can’t help feeling a little relieved when you reach the top).

There’s a map at the back of the book but it fails to mention the names of the B roads that you need to follow to reach some of the crags. This isn’t a big problem as it’s still pretty clear from the drawing how to get there. I’m nit picking really.

The climbing routes are well described and easy to follow, and I can wholeheartedly recommend this book for anyone who wants to climb trad routes on the best gritstone crags in the Peak District. If you want to buy a copy, I would recommend buying from The Climbing Book Shop.

Climbing book review: Eastern Grit (ROCKFAX) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.

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I was immediately drawn to Peak District Climbing because it’s published by Vertebrate Publishing. I have 3 of their mountain biking books and they have all been top-drawer. This book is no exception.

The book is beautifully laid out with full colour pictures overlaid with dotted lines to show the routes. Vertebrate haven’t tried to cram too many routes onto each page so the text is nice and clear and it’s easy to find the route you’re looking for. This is a godsend when you’re climbing and you need to keep referring to the book.

There are over 850 routes and bouldering problems in the book. Over 400 of the routes are within the mere mortal range of Mod to HS.

The grading for each climb is well presented, shown in both the UK adjective grade and the sport grade e.g VS, 4b.

Unlike the other Peak District climbing book that I have reviewed, Eastern Grit, this book not only has gritstone crags but covers the limestone crags and quarries too.

The book is choc full of inspirational climbing shots, advice on choosing your first rack, techniques, climbing terminology and best of all a really useful map of the peaks area with all of the crags clearly marked.

Here’s where you can buy a copy of Peak District Climbing. Let me know what you think to it.

Climbing book review: Peak District Climbing (Vertebrate Publishing) is a post from: Rock Climbing UK, an online UK climbing magazine, written BY UK climbers FOR UK climbers.